dogfix
New Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:50 am

Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:47 am

I just picked up a couple of steel 72's. I had the opportunity to remove the valves and drop a light down them before buying. The interior of both tanks are mostly light gray with a small patch of flash rust in each. The original hydro's are 3-66 and 9-67. The last hydro's are 9-79 each. Both tanks have their original Voit J valves. I have yet to get them hydro'd.

These are my first steel 72's. I have been trying to bring myself up to speed on all things steel 72 related. But, I have a question regarding the valves. If I need to, can I swap out one of the Voit J valves for a newer K valve? One of the valves just doesn't feel right when I operate it and if I go to rebuild it and find that it's been trashed, I may need to replace it.

Any of your thoughts on this, and steel 72's in general, would be greatly appreciated!

Image

User avatar
1969ivan1
Plank Owner
Posts: 1646
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 12:15 pm
First Name: rob
Location: CINCINNATI, OHIO

Re: Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:51 am

Yes, u can swap them out with any other 3/4 inch tank valve. Get rid of those boots though. They are ugly and make tanks rust IMO.

User avatar
Gilldiver
Master Diver
Posts: 273
Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:29 pm

Re: Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:20 pm

The blow out plugs on both valves look like they may be the old lead ones, get new ones when you have the tanks hydro-ed.
Double Hose Regulators, It not just a Hobby, it’s a Disease

User avatar
YankDownUnder
Master Diver
Posts: 376
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 6:42 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Contact: Website

Re: Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:37 pm

J valves are very simple, but should be serviced every five years. There is a good probability that cleaning and lubricating them is all that is needed. You have classic matched set and it would be a shame to put new valves on them. The tanks are no doubt galvanized and you should not sand blast them. I would think you do as Rob suggests, and remove the boots. If there is rust, remove it with Naval Jelly from your local home depot and repaint the tanks. You have a good find and I encourage you preserve them as best you can. Congratulations, Steve

WD8CDH

Re: Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:41 pm

Matched except those are USD boots on Voit tanks. :roll:

User avatar
antique diver
Master Diver
Posts: 2210
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:50 pm
First Name: Bill
Location: North-Central Texas

Re: Tanks, questions

Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:23 pm

The reserve mechanism won't last forever in these valves, so look inside at the rubber or composite tips on the inside end of the reserve stem assembly. Check the material carefully to make sure it isn't about to crumble and leave you with no reserve air because the air leaked around the seal during a dive.
The same basic Voit valve also came as a K model with a plug in the reserve side. You may want to do that if you are in doubt about the reserves or just don't want them. I would keep the Voit valves... they are easily overhauled and internal shaft seals are available. I may still have some extra plugs for the reserve end if you need them.
The older I get the better I was.

dogfix
New Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:50 am

Re: Tanks, questions

Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:30 am

Thanks for the replies! I have already removed the boots and checked the tank condition beneath them. No external signs of corrosion anywhere on the tanks. It is my intention to rebuild and place back in service both tank valves. I'm hoping that replacement burst disks are still available. Did Voit make their own tank boots?

I also noticed that the original o-rings, where the valve meets the tank, are V shaped. I'm assuming I can replace them with a standard o-ring.

I'm planning on taking a VIP Refresher course at Our World Underwater this winter. I thought it would be fun to take one of these tanks along as my test tank.

WD8CDH

Re: Tanks, questions

Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:00 pm

dogfix wrote:I also noticed that the original o-rings, where the valve meets the tank, are V shaped. I'm assuming I can replace them with a standard o-ring.
yep, they were round when they were put in there years ago.

User avatar
antique diver
Master Diver
Posts: 2210
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:50 pm
First Name: Bill
Location: North-Central Texas

Re: Tanks, questions

Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:53 pm

The oring is just a standard # 214 that is widely available and should be cheap. Don't take a chance on leakage with the old ones.
The burst discs should be available from any real dive shop (as opposed to the more commonly encountered "dive boutique"). If you have trouble finding any of the parts just drop me an email. From the picture it looks like you have the original plugs retaining the discs. These don't have lead in them, and can be reused if you want to keep the correct vintage configuration... with one caveat: newer configurations have a hex head that covers the opening and diverts the air from a ruptured disc in several directions to keep the cylinder from being pushed around by the air jet. And more importantly, the head of the new type captures the loose piece of copper that may blow out of the hole you see in your existing plug.
The older I get the better I was.

User avatar
JES
Plank Owner
Posts: 1341
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 11:23 pm
First Name: Joseph
Location: Fleming Island, FL

Re: Tanks, questions

Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:30 am

Nice score on the tanks. Congrats! 8)
NAVED Master Diver #108
'Anima Sana In Corpore Sano’

Return to “Tanks and Valves”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 131 guests