I don't think a file is a good idea, as it might quickly make matter worse. Could you possibly get a good well lit photo of the orifice so we could see the degree of damage to the orifice? That could help with additional suggestions for cure before resorting to that.
I'd like to see a couple of photos, too. That would make reasonable suggestions easier to make!antique diver wrote: ↑Sat Jan 28, 2023 1:25 pmI don't think a file is a good idea, as it might quickly make matter worse. Could you possibly get a good well lit photo of the orifice so we could see the degree of damage to the orifice? That could help with additional suggestions for cure before resorting to that.
Mark, I hadn't heard of using the 0000 steel wool on the orifice. Always good to learn something new!
As you also mentioned, I too have seen pretty coarsely machined new hp seats that could benefit from a careful lapping routine if they don't seat in by themselves after a few days in place.
Not sure that would work if the orifice size is not the same.Vancetp wrote: ↑Sun Jan 29, 2023 9:41 pmA totally screwed orifice in a nozzle or valve body could be remediated with a major and irreversible repair. This would involve drilling out and cutting the nozzle or valve body to accept a common o'ring sealed HP seat, like a Conshelf part. This would be a pretty cool upgrade, since you'd be able to replace the HP seat in future.
This is not something anyone will be able to do, but a competent machinist could. It's not that hard.
If anyone has some valve bodies or nozzles that are bad and would send them to me, I'd love to experiment on fixing them. You might get them back fixed, and if not, you are no worse off... Except for the shipping cost. But you'd be taking one for the team?
I agree with ScubaLawyer and Chris... Have used both methods successfully several times. I think the U.S.Divers manual has a trouble shooting section that says to use a wooden dowel with a clean flat end. I think it said to use lapping compound. I don't remember if I tried lapping compound. My first approach is to use a wooden pencil with a brand new, flat erasor and #0000 steel wool (that's 4 zeros... very fine). This has worked most of the time. Be sure to WIPE the area clean afterwards as the steel wool can leave debris that might interfere with the seal between the seat and orifice. I used a dowel with 1500 grit sand paper once or twice when the #0000 steel wool wasn't getting it.
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