- After doing all the disassembly, cleaning, etc. I assemble the first stage nozzle, slip it into the yoke, and put it on a scuba tank. I charge the nozzle. I listen to make sure that the first stage isn't leaking at all. I use the pin and pad to depressurize the nozzle, and remove it from the tank.
-I put the nozzle and yoke onto the main body of the regulator, and affix the body to the back can with the body ring. At this point I test fit a second stage diaphragm. If the arms on the diaphragm are off center, then I loosen the body ring a tiny bit and move the body of the regulator. Even the cans with ears for locating the body have a little slop in them. This sometimes is the difference between a regulator that vibrates and one that doesn't, along with second stage lever height. I get the second stage lever alignment as close to center on both tabs of the diaphragm as possible by fidgeting with the regulator body alignment.
-After all this, I screw the second stage lever screws all the way in, then back them out 2 full turns. I use my micrometer to make sure that the lever is true, and if it isn't then I may back out one screw a half turn or so to make it true. Then, I install the locking pin for the second stage screws.
-Like Captain Tom, I tune the first stage by ear. I put the regulator on a tank with 300PSI, then increase the first stage pressure until the second stage hisses. At that point, I back the first stage screw off 1/8 of a turn, then cycle the horseshoe lever a bunch to make sure it isn't leaky. Once I'm confident that everything is good to go, then I assemble the regulator.
-It should crack at 1"-1.5" on a 300 PSI tank, and 2"-2.5" on a full one. That's about the usual for a stock DA regulator.
There are many ways to rebuild a DA, and this is A way
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