Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:24 am
Welcome to the board.
When looking for a reg, RAMs are fine but the only difference between them a DAAM (DA Aquamaster) is the first stage and since you intend install a Phoenix nozzle (which is basically a new first stage) , the end product is exactly the same. And since RAMs tend to sell for a good bit more than a DAAM there is no reason at all to bypass a DAAM when it will do just as well and there is no need to spend the extra money unless you run across a deal. I applaud your interest in doing your own reg work but I would suggest that for your first reg or 2, believe me there will be more, that you either buy one that has been restored by one of our members or better yet by Bryan. The reason I suggest this is 2 fold. First, DH regs do breath differently and require a somewhat different diving technique so starting off with a reg you KNOW is working properly helps sort out where the “lack of performance’ is coming from since you can pretty much eliminate the reg. Next, while fairly easy to do, servicing of any reg and IMO more so with DH regs, it takes a little “ feel” to get it right. You have no way of knowing you have it right if you have not experienced diving with one that is properly tuned. Which leads me into the next subject.
While you don't have to give up your BC, you really should swap out to one that is designed to work with a DH reg. Most modern BC’s, BP/wings included, simply do not allow you to position the reg in it’s proper position on your back. Trying to use your modern BC will not go well, it will work but not well. They tend to force you to place the reg higher than is optimal and worse, they tend to hold the tank and reg off your back, a definite performance killer for a DH reg. An inch or so here makes a huge difference in performance. Do yourself a big favor and look into the BC Bryan sells that is designed especially for DH regs, it will make a world of difference and it works perfectly fine with modern regs as well. That said, most of us prefer no BC diving when we can and it’s appropriate. No BC diving is no where as difficult as you might imagine, esp. if you dive warmer water that does not require much wet suit. First off, get your weighting dead on, an extra few pounds makes a big difference when you don’t have the crutch of a BC to fall back on. When checking your weights, make sure your BC and wetsuit are fully cleared of any trapped air, make sure you don’t move your feet or hands and most important of all, SLOW DOWN,. I see way too many students doing a weight check and they seem to think they should drop like a rock as soon as they exhale….you shouldn’t but rather you should hesitate for a few seconds then start to SLOWLY sink. Properly weighted for warm water no BC diving, you should be about 2 lbs negative at the start of a dive and 2 positive at the end- basically the swing in buoyancy of a tank from full to empty. To learn no BC diving, I suggest to people I mentor a simple technique. Just dive what ever gear you are currently using to but dive it like you have no BC. Get your weighting dead on, dump ALL of the air out of your BC- making sure it’s empty, then do the dive using just your lung volume and cadence . If you find you must add or remove air as you change depths, then you have 1 of 2 problems, you are wearing very changeable exposure protection or more likely you still have air somewhere in your BC. There are techniques for dealing with heavier wetsuits but that is no BC 201. After a while you will find that on every dive, DH or not, you will deflate your BC as you descend and don’t touch it until you surface. When you get to this point, dropping the BC is easy since in effect you are already diving without one, and you’re a much better diver to boot.
Again, welcome to the board. Ask questions, a get to know the bunch who hang out here.. You will not find a better bunch of divers anywhere.
Herman