That is a trick I also have used.antique diver wrote:The most likely problem is brought up by GJ1963, so definitely replace that seal in the reserve side first. If the problem still exists, there is a cure that I use with a thin copper washer shaped over the 540 nipples. It is soft enough to seal up scratches and nicks that won't otherwise seal, and excessive torque is not normally needed.
I was lucky enough to find some conical washers many years ago, and it was easy to shape them to fit the 540 nipple. Over the years I have used all but two of these, and would like to keep them at least until I can find more. These were originally designed to fit in JIC flared fittings so that scratched/damaged JIC ends would seal. I haven't seen them anywhere since, but I'll bet they are still made.KD8CVL wrote:Antique Diver - Thanks much for your fine info & picture. I've been considering such a concept for scratched up 540 nipples. Would appreciate any source/fabrication info that you can give. McMaster Carr carries flat copper washers but so far I've not found conical ones. Thinking about trying flaring tool as a die to atleast approximate the angle before mating up the 540s. Mike
Those are pretty small, corresponding (if I remember correctly) roughly to size of the flared ends of 3/16" and 1/4" tubing. AN sizing is the AN number/16. The size we need is probably more like a 6 or 8 (3/8" or 1/2" tubing flare). I'll try to figure out what size I have.KD8CVL wrote:I may have found some conical copper washers. Found 3an and 4an sizes (not sure what corresponding dimensions are yet). They are used for fixing problem hydraulic fitting leaks (ie: automotive brakes). If I find worth while conical sealing washers I'll let you know and we can stock up.
Thanks, once I find washers I'll try it.captain wrote:Use an appropriate sized flat copper washer. Insert a short length of the appropriate size wood dowel into the male CGA fitting and slip the washer over the dowel to hold it centered in position. Assemble the manifold and tighten the nut to form the washer. Dis-assemble and remove the dowel. The washer should be formed to the correct shape.
Thanks, Secoseals.com makes such seals for aerospace. They have a good pdf drawing for range of sizes. Yes, Army Navy 6,7,8 look better. However, Seco seals have a small locating diameter that fits over male and may have to be removed. Most likely will fab my own.antique diver wrote:Those are pretty small, corresponding (if I remember correctly) roughly to size of the flared ends of 3/16" and 1/4" tubing. AN sizing is the AN number/16. The size we need is probably more like a 6 or 8 (3/8" or 1/2" tubing flare). I'll try to figure out what size I have.KD8CVL wrote:I may have found some conical copper washers. Found 3an and 4an sizes (not sure what corresponding dimensions are yet). They are used for fixing problem hydraulic fitting leaks (ie: automotive brakes). If I find worth while conical sealing washers I'll let you know and we can stock up.
KD8CVL wrote:Thanks, Secoseals.com makes such seals for aerospace. They have a good pdf drawing for range of sizes. Yes, Army Navy 6,7,8 look better. However, Seco seals have a small locating diameter that fits over male and may have to be removed. Most likely will fab my own.antique diver wrote:Those are pretty small, corresponding (if I remember correctly) roughly to size of the flared ends of 3/16" and 1/4" tubing. AN sizing is the AN number/16. The size we need is probably more like a 6 or 8 (3/8" or 1/2" tubing flare). I'll try to figure out what size I have.KD8CVL wrote:I may have found some conical copper washers. Found 3an and 4an sizes (not sure what corresponding dimensions are yet). They are used for fixing problem hydraulic fitting leaks (ie: automotive brakes). If I find worth while conical sealing washers I'll let you know and we can stock up.
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