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Discussion of diving methods and equipment available prior to the development of BCDs beyond the horse collar. This forum is dedicated to the pre-1970 diving.
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capn_tucker
Master Diver
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:04 am
Location: Southeast GA

Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:35 pm

Hey Greg,

Have you tried rotating the VCR-2 mechanism inside the can to get increased air flow? If so does it make any difference? I'm going to be getting my VCR-2 rebuilt soon, and considering whether to have the mechanism rotated while the rebuild is going on...
Quick Robin, to the Voitmobile!

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Robohips77
Master Diver
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:26 pm
Location: Southwest in the Buckeye State

Any Paint left?

Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:45 pm

Greg, Any Paint left? Yep I am trying to take the easy route but I will pay my portion if any left. Did you paint it or did you have someone else? Since we are both in SW Ohio thought I'd ask. thanks. Roger VF By the way great info.
First dives? 1967 and I never lost the fever.

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Greg Barlow
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First Name: Greg
Location: SW Ohio

Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:58 pm

capn_tucker wrote:Hey Greg,

Have you tried rotating the VCR-2 mechanism inside the can to get increased air flow? If so does it make any difference? I'm going to be getting my VCR-2 rebuilt soon, and considering whether to have the mechanism rotated while the rebuild is going on...
I haven't rotated my valve assembly, but some other divers report an improvement in performance from a stronger venturi effect.

Greg Barlow
Greg Barlow
PADI Assistant Instructor
TDI Adv. EAN
TDI Decompression Procedures
IANTD Full Cave
NSS/CDS Full Cave

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Greg Barlow
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Re: Any Paint left?

Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:00 pm

Robohips77 wrote:Greg, Any Paint left? Yep I am trying to take the easy route but I will pay my portion if any left. Did you paint it or did you have someone else? Since we are both in SW Ohio thought I'd ask. thanks. Roger VF By the way great info.
I do have some paint left. My brother restores vintage muscle cars for a living outside of Tallahassee, but UPS was going to charge me a large amount to ship the "hazardous material" paint. I had a local body shop paint it for me. If you know someone in your area, I recommend that route.

Greg
Greg Barlow
PADI Assistant Instructor
TDI Adv. EAN
TDI Decompression Procedures
IANTD Full Cave
NSS/CDS Full Cave

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Greg Barlow
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Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:01 pm

capn_tucker wrote:Hey Greg,

Have you tried rotating the VCR-2 mechanism inside the can to get increased air flow? If so does it make any difference? I'm going to be getting my VCR-2 rebuilt soon, and considering whether to have the mechanism rotated while the rebuild is going on...
Where you able to obtain a new seat assembly? Those are about as rare as hen's teeth....

Greg
Greg Barlow
PADI Assistant Instructor
TDI Adv. EAN
TDI Decompression Procedures
IANTD Full Cave
NSS/CDS Full Cave

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Robohips77
Master Diver
Posts: 814
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:26 pm
Location: Southwest in the Buckeye State

got a painting friend

Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:04 pm

Greg, send me a PM with how much you want for the paint. I know my painting friend will ask me how old the paint is so add that tid bit of info in it. I will do some before and after pics for all. My inard guts are the first photo in Bryan's post. This will be fun. Thanks for the info. RVF.
First dives? 1967 and I never lost the fever.

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Robohips77
Master Diver
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Location: Southwest in the Buckeye State

No not yet.

Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:05 pm

No seat yet.
First dives? 1967 and I never lost the fever.

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capn_tucker
Master Diver
Posts: 707
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:04 am
Location: Southeast GA

Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:42 pm

Greg Barlow wrote:
capn_tucker wrote:Hey Greg,

Have you tried rotating the VCR-2 mechanism inside the can to get increased air flow? If so does it make any difference? I'm going to be getting my VCR-2 rebuilt soon, and considering whether to have the mechanism rotated while the rebuild is going on...
Where you able to obtain a new seat assembly? Those are about as rare as hen's teeth....

Greg
No, I haven't been able to find any VCR-2 parts. I plan to just have Bryan refurbish the old parts best he can. That will have to do until an HP seat can be found. This reg will be pretty much a display item until then...
Quick Robin, to the Voitmobile!

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simonbeans
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First Name: Allan
Location: Rochester NY

Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:59 pm

Considerable discusson on rotation of the mechanism so that the hole points down the intake nozzle can be found on that other "not to named" forum. I rotated mine and found a very significant difference. I would almost say that with the improved wagon wheels it breathes as nice as my Mistral. When yoiu do the rotation, the pin cannot be used unless you drill another hole. But there is no reason to do that. I would like some silicone grays however. The repro grays are just not right.
Allan
Image

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capn_tucker
Master Diver
Posts: 707
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:04 am
Location: Southeast GA

Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:16 am

So leaving the pin out when rotating the mechanism doesn't do anything?
That's good to know. I will definitely get the rotation done when I get around to having my reg serviced..
Quick Robin, to the Voitmobile!

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Bryan
Plank Owner
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 11:40 am
First Name: Bryan
Location: Wesley Chapel Florida
Contact: Website

Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:40 am

capn_tucker wrote: No, I haven't been able to find any VCR-2 parts. I plan to just have Bryan refurbish the old parts best he can. That will have to do until an HP seat can be found. This reg will be pretty much a display item until then...
Voit R&R going on....
Image
Image
Image
Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

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capn_tucker
Master Diver
Posts: 707
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:04 am
Location: Southeast GA

Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:53 am

Voit R & D? :) Woo Hoo! Bryan, you ARE the man! This is looking better by the minute! :D
Quick Robin, to the Voitmobile!

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Greg Barlow
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First Name: Greg
Location: SW Ohio

Sat Oct 27, 2007 8:35 pm

Bryan,

Did you have any trouble turning down the stainless alloy? I am guessing it to be a 300 series part. I had thoughts of turning down my original one in my chromed version, until I found that the retaining pin was frozen solid, and the seat/disc assembly had to be cut for removal. I will measure my two new ones to determine what the tolerance range is. My guess is that a used one could easily be reduced in length by 0.010-0.015" without any functioning problems. The clear nylon seat material should be chemically stable over the last 50 years.

Let our enquiring minds know how it works...

BTW, any luck in finding compatible gaskets for the seat assembly? The originals in mine where surprisingly able to maintain an air tight seal. Given the low amount of torque necessary for a seal, an O-ring might possibly also work well. Given the thickness of two phenolic gaskets, the O-ring wouldn't be much thicker (a 0.070" O-ring). There wouldn't be any ID surface, but the pressure will be trying to extrude the O-ring outward rather than inward. If this works, along with your resurfacing efforts, the 50 Fathoms will have a long life ahead of them.

Greg Barlow
Greg Barlow
PADI Assistant Instructor
TDI Adv. EAN
TDI Decompression Procedures
IANTD Full Cave
NSS/CDS Full Cave

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eskimo3883
Master Diver
Posts: 384
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:15 pm

Primer?

Sun Oct 28, 2007 5:30 pm

Hi Greg,

Can you tell me what primer you used on the bare brass under the blue paint? Can I assume the blue was a lacquer and not an enamel? Also, did you polish the brass with a buffing wheel or some other tool?

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Bryan
Plank Owner
Posts: 5279
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 11:40 am
First Name: Bryan
Location: Wesley Chapel Florida
Contact: Website

Sun Oct 28, 2007 6:29 pm

Greg Barlow wrote:Bryan,

Did you have any trouble turning down the stainless alloy? I am guessing it to be a 300 series part. I had thoughts of turning down my original one in my chromed version, until I found that the retaining pin was frozen solid, and the seat/disc assembly had to be cut for removal. I will measure my two new ones to determine what the tolerance range is. My guess is that a used one could easily be reduced in length by 0.010-0.015" without any functioning problems. The clear nylon seat material should be chemically stable over the last 50 years.

Let our enquiring minds know how it works...

BTW, any luck in finding compatible gaskets for the seat assembly? The originals in mine where surprisingly able to maintain an air tight seal. Given the low amount of torque necessary for a seal, an O-ring might possibly also work well. Given the thickness of two phenolic gaskets, the O-ring wouldn't be much thicker (a 0.070" O-ring). There wouldn't be any ID surface, but the pressure will be trying to extrude the O-ring outward rather than inward. If this works, along with your resurfacing efforts, the 50 Fathoms will have a long life ahead of them.

Greg Barlow
I just had the seat in the drill because I was polising it with emery paper after I got the groove out of it. Other than that I have not experimented with any other parts.
Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

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