O-ring? 1955 USD valve.

[Robohips77]

Curious to know what the proper terms are for the o-ring? on the 1955 USD 1/2 inch tapered valve I have. It is the O-ring (seat) for the regulator surface and is obviously larger than the standard o-rings of today and with that said it reminds me of the seats used for O2 bottles a few years back but they were not neoprene. Any help on the terminology and does any one have these critters? Thanks for the help. If not posted in right area sorry in advance.

[Nemrod]

I am not sure about the 1955 O ring but most all low pressure cylinders up until the 70s used the "fat" Orings. These are commonly available at any dive shop, Harbor Freight, Ace hardware etc.

Now there are some jumbo O rings like the Nemrod valves use that are a bit odd.

James

[Bryan]

Great question and perfect spot for it.....I have a couple of those and the material looks like a white/clear nylon or something similar? I don't know the answer either. I think Captain might be able to shed some light on this one though.

[pescador775]

The 1955, USD valve used a -112 O ring. The Healthways (Divair) valve used an EZ Seal washer.

[capn_tucker]

The 1955, USD valve used a -112 O ring. The Healthways (Divair) valve used an EZ Seal washer.

I have this USD manifold dated 10-55, and it has what looks like a plain old plastic washer? I'm wondering if it's correct, as it sticks out so far my regs don't attach very tightly..

[ovalis]

US Divers first introduced their valves in 1954. The '54 & '55 valves used a white teflon washer. Starting in 1956, they switched to an o-ring. You'll find most of the '54 & '55 valves today have been replaced with a rubber washer instead of the teflon. I think it was King Neptune who made those rubber washers back in the days, but then again a number of other companies could have made them as well. The black & red label broxtons came with a hex screw and a wrench instead of a wing screw on the yoke to tighten them down on the valve. It must have been a pain to tighten down the wing screw on the teflon washer. When you see a wing screw on those regulators that looks like it's been slightly bent in the direction of tightening, that's probably the reason why.

[capn_tucker]

US Divers first introduced their valves in 1954. The '54 & '55 valves used a white teflon washer. Starting in 1956, they switched to an o-ring. You'll find most of the '54 & '55 valves today have been replaced with a rubber washer instead of the teflon. I think it was King Neptune who made those rubber washers back in the days, but then again a number of other companies could have made them as well. The black & red label broxtons came with a hex screw and a wrench instead of a wing screw on the yoke to tighten them down on the valve. It must have been a pain to tighten down the wing screw on the teflon washer. When you see a wing screw on those regulators that looks like it's been slightly bent in the direction of tightening, that's probably the reason why.

You got that right! My regs won't tighten down enough on this plastic washer, to the point I've thought about replacing the manifold with something newer. I definitely need one of those rubber washers before this rig ever gets used...

[pescador775]

Right, the US Divers valves were updated in 1956. USD was the first to use an O ring on their valves. Other companies continued to use the teflon washer. Generally, after 1956, when the EZ Seal company produced a replacement rubber washer, the teflon type which were a bear to seal, disappeared. Tucker, that manifold looks serviceable; if you really want to use the manifold send me a PM with your address. I'll send you an EZ Seal.

[Robohips77]

I wonder if US Divers made the Healthways valve for a while in 55 or visa versa as the washer in my valve is definately a washer (black in color) not the white teflon and not the 112 o-ring mentioned earlier. I will check my local hydraulics shop for the washer along with the good old google! Man you guys on here are incredible with the information. At 52 the old dog learned something new again.

[ovalis]

The Healthways valve was a Superior valve, not made by USD.
I don't know any info about Superior. Possibly they made oxygen valves, because their valve looks very much like one.

[Robohips77]

On some of my old old O2 d size cylinders the valves are half inch tapered and the teflon washers are oh so close to fitting but not the same. I can't find a name on the valve. Great info though.

[luis]

I don’t mean to highjack the thread, but since we are talking about tank O-rings.

As mentioned before the fat one used in most valves in the 70’s is a #2-112 (it is also used in DIN connections).

The one used in most modern valves also known as the Sherwood valve O-ring is a #2-014.

I do not recommend buying either at a hardware store because you will get a 70durometer Nitrile (Buna-N) O-ring. You really want a 90durometer O-ring. The 70 durometer will work most of the time, but it is much more prone to blow an O-ring.

In the web site below you can buy the 90 durometer Nitrile (for Air not O2) O-rings at very reasonable prices:

http://www.air-oil.com/oringsonlinefset.htm

For $6 you can get 200 O-rings #2-112.
For $5 you can get 500 O-rings #2-014.

That is a life time supply for most of us.

[eskimo3883]

Hi,

I have a tank valve with a teflon seal and it looks quite a bit larger than a standrad o-ring seat. I got a Divair with several o-rings tied onto the yoke. Although they are black rubber these are not a traditional o-ring in shape. I was thinking these are a hybrid between the Teflon seats and the rubber o-ring. One surface looks like an o-ring but the other is flared out a bit. Kind of like an o-ring glued to a washer.

[Robohips77]

You probably have the ez seal washer. I have not located a source for them yet but then I have not worked hard on that issue yet.

[William]

I have a set of WW11 Twin Tanks that have 1 inch Pipe Threaded Valves going into both of the Tanks, but, then have a U.S.Divers ( R-Valve = Cuts on from O-PSI to 1800-PSI INSTANTLY, Very Unlike a normal Valves way of Functioning where the pressure can be controlled untill fully on ) Mated, just right, to those 1 inch Valves, and with NO Reduction Adaptor Nuts at all. I am thinking that those 1 inchers are 1 inch Oxygen Valves and the R-Valve that is Mated to them is done so well, that it seems like it might have been designed to do that. I Do not know, and ask if anyone has ever seen this Special Type of setup ,( no Reducer Nuts needed at all ), seen this before in any Catalog or in-Use back in those early years? I am Hopeing that, because they do NOT use the Reduction Nuts that are usually seen on these old tanks, that I may get Lucky and be able to have the Tanks Hydro Tested and then my local shop could fill them. They are great at this local Dive Shop and as long as the Hydro and Visuals are good they have been great about filling my tanks for me. Many other shops act like they are Tank Detectives trying to get a Confession out of the old boys. The problem with the old R-Valve is that it is Completely cut off and then Completely Cut on from 0 PSI to 1800PSI, Instantly. I must have gotten some Debris on the O-Ring one time because I cut it on and Wow Loud and Scary with 1800 PSI hitting the leaking connection Immediately. Gave me about the same feeling that I got when I had a Low Pressure BCD Hose hooked up to the High Pressure Port of my Voit Trieste Regulator. That woke me up Real fast too, ha, ha. Next time I cut it on it did not do that though and I never had to change the o-ring seal. I would like to ask "Is the EZ Seal correct for this R-Valve Setup or is one of the other O-Rings mentioned above correct and better for her?