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Discussion of diving methods and equipment available prior to the development of BCDs beyond the horse collar. This forum is dedicated to the pre-1970 diving.
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Bryan
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Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:15 pm

I'm working with the production samples now and it looks like a green light for Nov 26th for world wide release.....It's about time!!!

To attach it to the regulator I have used the following types of adhesive....DAP Marine Silicone in clear, Permatex 100% silicone adhesive in black, 3M Windshield silicone adhesive in black, Duocote silicone adhesive in clear and finally Master Bond 2 part epoxy. All the silicone stuff worked pretty much the same. No problems with any of it sticking and it cleaned up pretty easy when I removed it. The two part epoxy is more like a permanent decision. You can take it back out but you will break the DBE in the process.
I cleaned the surface of the can with soap and water then denatured alcohol. While it is air drying gather up your adhesive, lint free makeup remover pads, cotton swabs and some lint free towels if you are extra messy.
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You only need to use a SMALL AMOUNT of adhesive. If you use too much you will play hell cleaning up all the excess that squeezes out. Put a small amount of adhesive in the groove all the way around the DBE. Then on the backside put a small round circle of adhesive just a little smaller than a dime.
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Then simply push it into place in the regulator horn. You can see the excess adhesive squeeze out around the edges so use some damp Q-tips and carefully remove as much excess as you like. Make only one pass per Q-tip. If you don't start with a new one each time the silicone will simply stick to the Q-tip and make a mess.
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When you are done you will have something that looks like the picture below.
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NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART. Set the whole thing aside and LEAVE IT ALONE :!: Don't mess with it. Follow the cure time recommended by the manufacturer of the adhesive. It takes a long while for silicone adhesive to off gas and to completely dry. If you are in a hurry INSTALL IT ANOTHER TIME.
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Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

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1969ivan1
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:27 pm

They look like they are ready for PRIME TIME!

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antique diver
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:28 pm

Looks great - Thanks for all the effort involved in bringing this to market!
The older I get the better I was.

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luis
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Wed Oct 27, 2010 7:08 pm

That looks great!
I am lookig foward to replacing all the duckbills from my diving regulators.
Luis

Buceador con escafandra autónoma clásica.

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JES
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:46 pm

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NAVED Master Diver #108
'Anima Sana In Corpore Sano’

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Herman
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:54 am

Very nice Bryan, I need to go shopping for silicone. :)
Herman

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captain
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:34 am

If you want something that I think is better than silicone RTV use 3M 5200 Marine sealant and Adhesive. It does take longer to fully cure, about 5 to 7 days but it is very strong.
Captain

Popeye
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Location: Panama City Beach,Florida

Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:58 am

highly recommand 3M 5200 Marine sealant and Adhesive for your Duckbill upgrade...

ovalis
Master Diver
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Location: Southern California

Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:53 am

The Duckbill Eliminator is pretty slick. It deserves the product of the year award.

Regards to the 3M 5200 adhesive, do you guys think that the DBE could be removed from the reg at a later date without destroying it?

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Bryan
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:14 pm

ovalis wrote:The Duckbill Eliminator is pretty slick. It deserves the product of the year award.

Regards to the 3M 5200 adhesive, do you guys think that the DBE could be removed from the reg at a later date without destroying it?
I tried marine adhesive.....It bonded more like an epoxy than a silicone adhesive...It was harder to remove but I was able to do it. Using regular silicone adhesives, after a long cure time I was able to suspend 2 to 5 lb weights from the DBE before it even thought about letting loose.

Bernie.....Yours is the can in the pictures above.....I'll ship it out to you Sunday and you can take it to the grinder...
Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

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captain
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Location: LaPlace, LA

Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:01 pm

Said to remove cured 5200, never tried it, most times I just use steady pressure and prying.

http://www.marineformula.com/faq.html
Captain

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Gilldiver
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:42 pm

If you are around an airport PRC 1440 would work great. It is certed to MIL-S-8802, try for a B-2 version.

or

AMS 3265 for a bit of corrosion protection, by AC Tech - Ac 730 B-1/2 or B-2. This material will harden up a good bit faster and the B-1/2 would be done in 30 to 40 minutes at 130-150F.
Double Hose Regulators, It not just a Hobby, it’s a Disease

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Nemrod
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:13 am

Great to see those getting ready to go. A new must have item :D .

Nem

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captain
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:55 am

Gilldiver wrote:If you are around an airport PRC 1440 would work great. It is certed to MIL-S-8802, try for a B-2 version.

or

AMS 3265 for a bit of corrosion protection, by AC Tech - Ac 730 B-1/2 or B-2. This material will harden up a good bit faster and the B-1/2 would be done in 30 to 40 minutes at 130-150F.
3M also has 4200 which is a faster cure and a little less strength than 5200
Captain

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Bryan
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Re: Installing your new Duckbill Eliminator

Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:06 pm

48 hour cure time.....4lb weight added. No Problem :D



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Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

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