cracked J-62 weld?

[ScubaLawyer]

When I assembled my J-62 manifold on my twin 45's the other day, they leaked on one side on first fill. I'm usually pretty good about sealing the brass to brass ball/socket joints and this one has never leaked before but that was the area the leak was in. When I disassembled it today I noticed the actual weld looking kinda ratty. I assume the ball joints are just welded into the cross tube and that they can break? Any ideas or comments? Thanks, Mark.

[antique diver]

That last picture seems to tell the story. Unless I'm mistaken the tube to nipple end looks bent out of line with the center valve part, and that looks like it pulled the brazed (or maybe silver-soldered) connection apart. I'm just surprised that they didn't leak before. Tanks being dropped or falling off a bench could do this. Dare I mention that using the manifold assembly as a wrench to unscrew the works from a tight pipe thread could also do the same thing? M... you wouldn't have done any of these things would you? (Just say "no", and we will go from there to trying to find the part for you.)

[antique diver]

I found an extra vintage center piece in the barn, but have not tested it for leaks. Shall I proceed with testing it in hope of making a lot of money from you?

[ScubaLawyer]

M... you wouldn't have done any of these things would you? (Just say "no", and we will go from there to trying to find the part for you.)

Er, "no." I certainly didn't whack it hard multiple times with a hard rubber mallet while it was attached to the J-valve side of the manifold in an attempt to make sure the o-ring/tank seal was seated well. Only an abject idiot would do that ..... I'm much to smart for that. M

[ScubaLawyer]

I found an extra vintage center piece in the barn, but have not tested it for leaks. Shall I proceed with testing it in hope of making a lot of money from you?

I have this older USD center piece from an old 1/2" npt tapered manifold. Looks to be the same size so I assume I could use it? M

[antique diver]

M... you wouldn't have done any of these things would you? (Just say "no", and we will go from there to trying to find the part for you.)

Er, "no." I certainly didn't whack it hard multiple times with a hard rubber mallet while it was attached to the J-valve side of the manifold in an attempt to make sure the o-ring/tank seal was seated well. Only an abject idiot would do that ..... I'm much to smart for that. M

Too many times I have learned important things the hard way.

[antique diver]

I have this older USD center piece from an old 1/2" npt tapered manifold. Looks to be the same size so I assume I could use it? M

Absolutely. Looks like needs an oring, so don't hurt yourself with a pick pulling out the old one. More importantly, don't scratch the brass with your pick. Probably be a good idea to pull it apart to check over the shaft seal(s) and seat.

BTW, something I may have learned the hard way: Sometimes those bonnets (bushing under the valve knob) are stuck pretty tight, and you can damage the corners with an open end wrench. Especially if you take a mallet to it. Much better to use a socket (probably need deep socket to clear the stem) or box end wrench... but the BEST is to use a six point socket or six point box end on tough to remove hex items! Invest in a few key sizes of those and save some grief at some point.

[ScubaLawyer]

Thanks Bill,

Always appreciate your advice! I'm having a bad dive gear repair day. When I was taking the bands off my 45's one of the nuts got cross-threaded somehow. Damn thing snapped clean in half. Golf is looking better and better. M

PhotoPictureResizer_190817_150155013_crop_2003x2028.jpg

[antique diver]

Thanks Bill,

Always appreciate your advice! I'm having a bad dive gear repair day. When I was taking the bands off my 45's one of the nuts got cross-threaded somehow. Damn thing snapped clean in half. Golf is looking better and better. M

PhotoPictureResizer_190817_150155013_crop_2003x2028.jpg

Don't feel bad - I've been there too... learned the hard way. I am assuming that those are Stainless Steel, which has a nasty habit of galling threads. There are two really easy cures for that malady:

1. Keep using stainless, but before assembly brush the threads with "never sieze" using something like a toothbrush. It's available at auto supply stores and even Walmart.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... CEs&adurl=

2. The other alternative is to switch to Galvanized bolts and nuts, which work well and look "vintage" on your older equipment. especially with galvanized bands. Available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

[antique diver]

One more bit of advice. Golfing is not stress-free either.

[ScubaLawyer]

One more bit of advice. Golfing is not stress-free either.

It's dangerous too. Had a client (I represented his wife actually) who, the day after he retired, was playing golf. He drove his cart off the cart path and into the rough. Unbeknownst to him, the tall grasses concealed a 100 foot cliff and he and his cart went over onto the highway below. M

[captain]

The nipples are 1/4" pipe thread screwed into the center section of the J62 and soft soldered. How do I know, I have removed them to install longer nipples.

[antique diver]

The nipples are 1/4" pipe thread screwed into the center section of the J62 and soft soldered. How do I know, I have removed them to install longer nipples.

That's good to know! I have needed shorter ones before to double up smaller diameter cylinders. So it doesn't take an unusual amount of heat to melt the solder?

[ScubaLawyer]

The nipples are 1/4" pipe thread screwed into the center section of the J62 and soft soldered. How do I know, I have removed them to install longer nipples.

Interesting! Is it tapered pipe thread or is it straight pipe thread with a gasket of some kind ?

[antique diver]

Captain knows his threads