Sintered filter assembly sequence - DA Aquamaster

[pclarke1]

I am rebuilding the first stage of my DA. The sintered filler supplied as a replacement part by Brian is slightly different than the one that came out of my reg. The replacement comes with a washer, the original has a metal frame. Does the washer go above the filer (between the circlip and the filter) or under it?

[luis]

Yes, the washer goes outside of the filter, between the filter and the snap-ring.

Make sure when you go to install it that the rounded edge of both the washer and the snap-ring are facing toward the inside of the regulator. The rounded edge is less likely to catch while you are pressing it in, and even more important, the sharp edge of the snap-ring hold better. This helps prevent the snap-ring from popping out.

The rougher surface of the filter should also face towards the outside of the regulator.

[Herman]

You may want to download the Conshelf or Titan manual as a guide. The internals are a lot alike (almost identical to the RAM/Phoenix) so most of the procedure is very similar if not identical.

[pclarke1]

Follow up question if I may. I have not seen any reference anywhere to torque values for any nuts. I am assuming then that there are none, and that snug is the answer. Is this correct?

[Herman]

For the most part, just good and snugg is fine, no need to really crank down on anything with the exception of the HP nozzle. Being a high pressure seal with a gasket it takes a good bit of torque to get it to seal. I torque it pretty tight then dunk it connected to a tank (I have a remote HP hose for the purpose) and see if I get any leaking around the nozzle. If I do, I torque it a little more. I am sure there is likely an official number but I have never seen it. A word of caution, to get the torque you may need, it is somewhat difficult to hold the body secure without the proper tools. Be careful how you hold the body because any major damage to the body means you now have a box of spare parts.