What's The Best Method To Clean A Galvanized Tank?

[Vintagediver]

Just recently my cousin gave me an old 71.2 U.S.D. galvanized Tank complete with tank bands and harness with the 1/2" J valve; AND a U.S.D. DA Navy Approved reg. The reg appears to be in great shape and after a winter restoration it will see action next summer. The tank also appears to be in good shape and I'm hoping it will pass inspection so it will also see action next summer. I would however like to clean the outside of the tank and would like to know what is the best way to do this. I have already done a search on this website and also VSS and have not found any info. I do not intend to paint the tank; I just want to clean up the galvanized finish and maybe put on one of the new decals that are available. I have been concerned as to what cleaners to use and what NOT to use so I don't damage the galvanized finish on the tank. Any info and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
Terry

[YankDownUnder]

The galvanized finish can be made to look like new with Naval Jelly. I would suggest that if there is any paint on the tank, or even old stickers, that you first remove them with Citrus paint remover. You can also use white vinegar, which works fast if warm. However, fumes can be a bit exciting.

Naval Jelly can be found at Home Depot or similar large hardware stores. It will make the tank look like it is factory new. Of course, it's shinney new finish will start to grey a bit after you start to use it and expose it to the sea. Once cleaned, you might consider a clear coat once you have the new decals applied. Make sure you keep the tank plugged, using an old valve. It is a bad idea to let the Naval Jelly inside the tank. Clean cool water will wash away any debris. Don't use hot water as it will cause fumes to form.

Be careful to use good rubber gloves and work in a well ventilated area. If you decide not to use the gloves you will notice a greasy feeking on your hands. That will be your skin disolving. Good Luck, Steve

[capn_tucker]

Klean Strip KS-3 paint remover also works well. It will remove old paint like nobody's business, and will dissolve old decals too. Just don't get it on your hands, or it will take the hide off just like Naval Jelly..

[captain]

Any type of acid such as phosphoric that is in Naval Jelly will remove some of the galvanize. Galvanize contains zinc, zinc is the sacrificial metal of choice to protect another metal such as the steel of the tank. It is used in sacrificial anodes on outboard engines and on underwater metal of any structure. It is slowly sacrificed instead of the structure. Once the zinc is used up it must be replaced, unfortunately there is no way to re-galvanize a tank. I would just leave it alone.

[capn_tucker]

Any type of acid such as phosphoric that is in Naval Jelly will remove some of the galvanize. Galvanize contains zinc, zinc is the sacrificial metal of choice to protect another metal such as the steel of the tank. It is used in sacrificial anodes on outboard engines and on underwater metal of any structure. It is slowly sacrificed instead of the structure. Once the zinc is used up it must be replaced, unfortunately there is no way to re-galvanize a tank. I would just leave it alone.

Using Galvilite won't help?

[Douchebag]

Any type of acid such as phosphoric that is in Naval Jelly will remove some of the galvanize. Galvanize contains zinc, zinc is the sacrificial metal of choice to protect another metal such as the steel of the tank. It is used in sacrificial anodes on outboard engines and on underwater metal of any structure. It is slowly sacrificed instead of the structure. Once the zinc is used up it must be replaced, unfortunately there is no way to re-galvanize a tank. I would just leave it alone.

+1
Word!

[captain]

Any type of acid such as phosphoric that is in Naval Jelly will remove some of the galvanize. Galvanize contains zinc, zinc is the sacrificial metal of choice to protect another metal such as the steel of the tank. It is used in sacrificial anodes on outboard engines and on underwater metal of any structure. It is slowly sacrificed instead of the structure. Once the zinc is used up it must be replaced, unfortunately there is no way to re-galvanize a tank. I would just leave it alone.

Using Galvilite won't help?

Galvalite is the best I have found to use on tanks that were never galvanized or the galvanize has become thin or gone but it is not as durable as the original hot dip galvanize.

[luis]

Galvalite is not as durable as hot dip galvanized, but it can be used over hot dip galvanized to get a new looking finish. And, IMO it will not compromise the galvanizing under it…it should actually protected it(although it is normally not needed).

If the desire is to obtain an even finish, I would recommend adding more zinc in the form of Galvalite rather than removing any with any kind of acid, etc.


I have used cold spray on galvanizing (Galvalite and some of its imitations) to coat the bottom of a tank below the boot and have had excellent results. The cold spray galvanizing work even better when they are not subject to abrasion, like under the boot and they seem to get less stain from the boot than the hot dip galvanizing.

[capn_tucker]

Good to know, as I have several tanks that were never galvanized, only painted. Once I strip off the paint and surface rust, then Galvilite it shall be..

[Vintagediver]

Thanks guy's; I really appreciate the info you had to offer. Now I have enough info to help me decide just how much if any "cleaning" I want to do to this tank. The tank appears to be in great shape and I hope to use it at the vintage dives next summer. Terry