Aqua Master regulator wrench

[luis]

Below are some pictures of a main body regulator wrench for the Aqua Master, Royal Aqua Master, or Phoenix Royal Aqua Master.

I have been thinking of an easy way to make such a wrench and today I just went to the local hardware store and found all the components to make IMO the perfect tool for this job. The total cost about $14.

It is just an adjustable spud wrench (from the pluming department) with two ½” diameter 3 inch long schedule L (heavy) rigid copper tubing. First I hammered the tubes on to the end of the wrench jaws and then I flattened the tubes with a hammer. I also ended up jamming a Q-tip on the back side of the jaws in the tubes to hold the tubes when the tool is not in use (the tubes are not tightly wedged onto the jaws).

The jaws are only 2 inches long so the pipes work as extension and to protect the regulator body from scratches. The copper is much softer that the chromed brass body.

The tool works great. I was able to put quite a bit of torque on my latest Phoenix with no fear of scratching or damaging any parts.

It can be used to torque the first stage or the ring closing the main can. It makes contact on the main body below the yoke and the hookah cap.

[Nemrod]

You can actually use a socket on the Phoenix body with the yoke removed--but--the best thing for first stage bodies including the Phoenix is a good old fashioned FORD wrench. They are called Ford wrenches because they came with Model A etc I am told. You can get a quality Ford wrech from where else--your friendly Snap On truck. Use a thick vinyl tape on the jaws for extra protection. A good Ford wrench will have nice and clean and smooth jaws and it will maintain jaw face parralism when loaded.


To prevent damage I make sure I have the tape on the jaws, I make sure I have the wrench square and very snug and I apply only enough pressure to seat the seals. Marring your new Phoenix or a good RAM nozzle would be very hurtfull. Oh, remove the port plugs when doing this so the wrench does not rock on them.

James

[Nemrod]

Oh, I see what your doing now, you hold the assembly with that plumbing wrench and the torque the nozzle with an adjustable wrench? I just hold the can assembly with my hands with the assembly setting on my bench top on a rubber mat. That is a nice idea--thanks.

James

[luis]

Oh, I see what your doing now, you hold the assembly with that plumbing wrench and the torque the nozzle with an adjustable wrench? I just hold the can assembly with my hands with the assembly setting on my bench top on a rubber mat. That is a nice idea--thanks.

James

I used to do that. Not again. It always bothered me to put load on the two small tabs in the can. I have never done any damage, but it doesn't seam right.

By clamping the wrench on the bench, everything is solid. Very little chance of slipping.

Yes, this is to secure the main body and then you can work on the first stage or what ever.

I am very happy as how well it works and how easy it is to make.


Due to the soft copper tube and the long distance between the contact point on the body (about 2 1/2 inches) there is almost no chance of leaving any marks on the body. Much less chance than holding it by the can and slipping.

The control wile torquing the first stage or the body ring is excellent.

[SDAquamaster]

Luis, I used the same wrench (From Ace Hardware for $12.99) to remove the main body rings on my Aqumasters by grinding the last 1/4 of the jaws of the wrench down to a width of about .170" so that they fit into 2 of the opposing slots in the ring. The handle of a cresent wrench between the jaws provides the leverage to loosen them. They are sort of the ultimate in large but cheap do it yourself pin spanners.

I like your additional suggestions for using the wrench.

[luis]

Luis, I used the same wrench (From Ace Hardware for $12.99) to remove the main body rings on my Aqumasters by grinding the last 1/4 of the jaws of the wrench down to a width of about .170" so that they fit into 2 of the opposing slots in the ring. The handle of a cresent wrench between the jaws provides the leverage to loosen them. They are sort of the ultimate in large but cheap do it yourself pin spanners.

I like your additional suggestions for using the wrench.

I do have a main body ring wrench, but if I didn't, your idea sound like it would work very well.

Here is a picture of the ring wrench with the regulator being held on my main body wrench. The wrench is being used like a vise. Below are also a couple of other pictures showing a little bit better how it holds the regulator.











I can use my large (16 inch) crescent wrench from below to tighten up the Phoenix. The body is very secure.