Vintage Double Hose

This Dacor 1/2 incher is leaking through the reserve. I would like to rectify that situation, but I am not sure how to get this one apart. There is a tiny hole on the reserve. Is there a pin in there holding the reserve lever on the valve? Thanks!

Jim

Looks like a pin holding the lever to the shaft. I have one of the same valves that I don't mind tearing into, but it may be a couple of days before I can retrieve it from storage. If you want me to find out more about it I'll be glad to open it up.

Just found mine in the garage. This one has a 1/16 socket head set screw, and it's not budging. I think it will just round out with the Allen wrench, but I'll try some penetrating oil and heat tomorrow. If that doesn't work I might be able to drill it out to disassemble, and re-tap for a slightly larger thread for reassembly.

Thanks, I thought that may be the case. If I can get this thing operational, I'll have one more tank for my jaunt to the South. This would be tank number 7 so I would have a loaner or two. I dripped some PB Blaster on mine. We'll see what happens.

Would DACOR Jerry Powell be able to help ?

If he could post here that would be great. I've got a lot on my plate this week so getting down to Salem Wisconsin where Dacor Jerry resides would not be doable. I'm headed towards the great state of South Carolina on Sunday en route to FLA. If I can fix it great. The old brain box is coming up with a plan. If not, I have a back up plan.

I tried drilling out the pin. Wound up going through the shaft and severing it. Oops.... The good news though I was able to service the reserve side and that now passes the leak test. Tank number 7 now on line. I'll be looking for a couple of 1/2" tapered US Divers valves after my Florida trip. Those can be serviced without the theatrics.

swimjim wrote:I tried drilling out the pin. Wound up going through the shaft and severing it. Oops.... The good news though I was able to service the reserve side and that now passes the leak test. Tank number 7 now on line. I'll be looking for a couple of 1/2" tapered US Divers valves after my Florida trip. Those can be serviced without the theatrics.

Was it a roll pin or a setscrew like mine? What kind of shaft seal was in there?

swimjim wrote:I tried drilling out the pin. Wound up going through the shaft and severing it. Oops.... The good news though I was able to service the reserve side and that now passes the leak test. Tank number 7 now on line. I'll be looking for a couple of 1/2" tapered US Divers valves after my Florida trip. Those can be serviced without the theatrics.

Was it a roll pin or a setscrew like mine? What kind of shaft seal was in there? Did you get the lever secured to the shaft ok?

Once the lever was removed, it was all standard stuff. I took it apart, flipped the seat and all was well as far as sealing . The J valve lever is toast. What ever pin was in there was probably steel and the lever and shaft are brass. I used a drill press, but I'm sure the bit simply took the easiest course piercing the shaft in exactly the wrong place. So, the valve is now a K valve and will be retired after the Florida trip. I've got another just like it, so if you come up with a way to undo that pin, I'm all ears. Thanks!

Jim

swimjim wrote:Once the lever was removed, it was all standard stuff. I took it apart, flipped the seat and all was well as far as sealing . The J valve lever is toast. What ever pin was in there was probably steel and the lever and shaft are brass. I used a drill press, but I'm sure the bit simply took the easiest course piercing the shaft in exactly the wrong place. So, the valve is now a K valve and will be retired after the Florida trip. I've got another just like it, so if you come up with a way to undo that pin, I'm all ears. Thanks!

Jim

I won't really know without seeing it, but maybe I could just drill a new hole and tap it for a setscrew! Is the shaft usable if we did that?

If you want to send a couple of photos of the lever and shaft I'll give it some thought. Maybe I could get the lever off my valve with a little more coaxing, but as you discovered it is hard to keep the bit going true in that combination of metals.
Hmm, haven't tried my valve to see if it works as it is... if so I could just bring it and a wrench to install in your tank.

The shaft is toast for use with a J Valve. I'll use it as a K. I'll replace it with a US Divers valve. Those are a better design anyway. Thanks though. Looking forward to seeing you down South!

Jim