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Herman
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Jul 26, 2018 6:51 am

Put a comma between Argonaut and Trieste on the store page....or are we working on a new reg? :)
Herman

jsmall
Diver
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First Name: John

Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Jul 26, 2018 7:23 am

I found it and ordered a couple. It seemed lumped in with the Argonaut. Maybe under the Phoenix section have service kit that shows when you click on the phoenix. It is not in the double hose parts section under other regulators, a phoenix parts section there would make it easier. If the store had parts headings for each type of regulator it might keep questions to a minimum. Is the work to do that worth the reward, it's for you to say. I can always use the forum or contact you but you have a nice precise sales system that receipts and emails updates so all you have to do is pick the part and put it in a box. It seems like the perfect system to run a business like you have. It keeps a lot of human interaction to a minimum (both a good and bad thing).

Regardless we will get by. You always answer promptly and professionally but I don't want to waste your time if I can find it easier.

John

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Bryan
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Jul 26, 2018 8:47 am

Both the Phoenix service kit and the HP seat are on the first page of the US Divers and Voit two stage parts page.

https://vintagedoublehose.com/store/#!/ ... ort=normal
Doing it right should include some common sense, not just blindly following specs and instructions. .Gary D, AWAP on SB

jsmall
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:58 am

I must be freeking blind, stupid or both. Or maybe it's not me (but I think it is). I looked for parts double hose two stage regulators and the choices are US Divers/Voit Two Stage parts I did not consider the Phoenix either of them, so I went to other regulators and saw nothing. When I followed the link you posted sure enough there it was. a whole kit with the HP seat. My Bad.

Moving on, occasionally I get a wet breath especially when I am in a head down position. There is evidence of salt water behind the diaphragm on the regulator box. I have seen this on other DA's I have torn down as well. where might the water be entering? the wagon wheels? horns?

it doesn't create a huge problem but if I can stop it from happening that would be great.


John

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captain
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:34 am

Be sure the cans are not warped or bent Look for splits in the hoses especially where they attach to the cans If you are using a duckbill make sure it is not twisted and that it lays flat ln the can.
Captain

jsmall
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Jul 31, 2018 1:32 pm

i am using the duckbill eliminator but Ill look for dents. I have spare exhaust cans I can try to swap one out see if that changes anything.

jsmall
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:01 am

I went through my regulator looking for cracks and leaks holes. I noticed a hairline crack in the supply housing and soldered it up and low and behold a couple of hole in the hoses. I replaced them and when I turn my head to the extreme left I get a wet breath. I cant for the life of me figure out why. I can yank on the hose and it's fine. I don't see any bubbles when I have it off. I am wondering if the annoying clips may secure the cans better than the band clamp.

I was also having creep on the IP and jump it would creep up to 150 or so and if you tapped the HPR lever it may jump up to 200 and start climbing.

I striped everything down Saturday and found that the Volcano valve cylinder and o-ring had seized up due to salt. I took a Dremel wire brush and later a polishing felt and cleaned up the cylinder and solved the problem IP stays where I set it. If I don't solve the leak I will likely have to do it again.

Any thoughts?

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Herman
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:01 pm

While a PITA, water getting into the cans does not allow water to get into the reg unless you depressurize the reg and press down the diaphragm while holding the reg so water can run in past the LP seat.....in other words, not going to happen. With the reg pressurized, it's internal pressure is always a lot higher than ambient so there is no way water can enter. Water in the first stage gets in from one place only, in through the filter. Most of the time it is from a wet dust cap, drops of water off the reg getting in during tank change, poor soaking habits or water in the valve stem of the tank itself. There is a nice little spot in the tank valve that will hold a couple drops of water sprayed into it from a wave or moving boat. It is ALWAYS a good idea to flush a little air out of the tank before using it, esp if it's on a boat or some place rain can get to it.

Also, I strongly recommend you not use wire brushes or the like on an orifice or any sealing surface, they are way to abrasive and can leave scratches that will ruin a sealing surface.....same goes for sandpaper lower than 600 grit....I use at least 800 and usually 1500 if I need to clean up a sealing surface.
Herman

jsmall
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:28 am

Hi Herman
This was a pretty light wire and used to knock the big stuff off. then I buffed it with a wool polishing tool and rouge. Not ideal but it seemed to do the job, but point taken.

I never rinse a regulator of any sort unless it is under pressure. The new Sherwood SR1 and SR2's state never rinse the second stage without pressure whether you push the purge valve or not.

The sintered filter was all salt encrusted so that must be how it got in the reg. I guess the point is never let any of the dive valet's touch your vintage double hose gear.

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ScubaLawyer
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:11 am

jsmall wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:01 am
I went through my regulator looking for cracks and leaks holes. I noticed a hairline crack in the supply housing...
If your can is that bad I'd look for divots, gouges, and worn spots on the chrome on the lip of the can where the second stage diaphragm sits and seals between the two cans. Had a wet reg one time where I couldn't immediately see the defect but could definitely feel it when I ran my fingernail around that rim. Anyway, my 2 psi for another possibility for a wet reg. Mark
"The diver who collects specimens of underwater life has fun and becomes a keen underwater observer. .. seek slow-moving or attached organisms such as corals, starfish, or shelled creatures." (Golden Guide to Scuba Diving, 1968) :D

jsmall
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First Name: John

Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:32 am

I might just switch it to another can I have several. What works good for a tool to remove the big nut? I was thinking of using some 2"ish PVC and grinding tabs in it. or would it be easier to re clock the phoenix?

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ScubaLawyer
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:19 pm

jsmall wrote:
Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:32 am
I might just switch it to another can I have several. What works good for a tool to remove the big nut? I was thinking of using some 2"ish PVC and grinding tabs in it. or would it be easier to re clock the phoenix?
If it was me, and I knew there was no issue of leakage in the 1st stage to body seal, I'd leave the Phoenix attached to the body. Herman makes a Ring Nut Tool that I use and works great. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qbpqsjukaz8n ... f.pdf?dl=0
"The diver who collects specimens of underwater life has fun and becomes a keen underwater observer. .. seek slow-moving or attached organisms such as corals, starfish, or shelled creatures." (Golden Guide to Scuba Diving, 1968) :D

jsmall
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:23 am

As I looked and felt around the IP can i could feel a few areas that might be a problem. I have a 2 late 50's DAAM so I swapped the whole phoenix unit out to the other satin finished can. It looks like a Frankenstein but it seems to not suck air when I breath with the cap on. I will give it a try tomorrow on a scallop dive and see how it does.

I didn't have time to get Herman's nut removal tool so I used some articulated needle nose pliers and clamped them in a vice. It was a great improvised way to get the nut off but the right tool for the job is best. Removing that unit was a lot less scary than I thought it would be. The link to the tool showed the LP seat adjusting tool, that looks pretty clever too. A lot easier than a small screwdriver and a 1/4 open end wrench

Is there any magic formula to get rid of the old duckbill valves stuck to the exhaust can? I have to clean a few up.

John

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ScubaLawyer
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:09 am

jsmall wrote:
Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:23 am
Is there any magic formula to get rid of the old duckbill valves stuck to the exhaust can? I have to clean a few up.
John, soak the horn overnight in isopropyl rubbing alcohol - always does it for me. That may have been one of Herman's tricks he taught me. Mark

P.S. I just get a shot glass of isopropyl and stick the horn in it. Keeps alcohol off the label.
"The diver who collects specimens of underwater life has fun and becomes a keen underwater observer. .. seek slow-moving or attached organisms such as corals, starfish, or shelled creatures." (Golden Guide to Scuba Diving, 1968) :D

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antique diver
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Re: Phoenix Service Question

Thu Aug 16, 2018 12:29 pm

ScubaLawyer wrote:
Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:09 am
jsmall wrote:
Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:23 am
Is there any magic formula to get rid of the old duckbill valves stuck to the exhaust can? I have to clean a few up.
John, soak the horn overnight in isopropyl rubbing alcohol - always does it for me. That may have been one of Herman's tricks he taught me. Mark

P.S. I just get a shot glass of isopropyl and stick the horn in it. Keeps alcohol off the label.

Years ago, back before I heard about the alcohol soak on this forum, I used it in a similar manner that I found helpful.
The special mixture was 1. A shot of Jim Beam, 2. a pint of patience, 3. a gallon of elbow grease, 4. repeat number 1.
The older I get the better I was.

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