Vintage Double Hose

If you get up that way, I could be interested.

He hasnt returned my email yet. Plus it is almost an hour away.

I made plans to pick these up friday. Now the purpose of the galvanite is to what - restore the finish that was removed when you strip the paint, add extra protection or purely for appearances? If this has already been covered then no need to answer and I'll search for it. I just dont like that silvery look.

You can paint them anyway you like to. Personally, I like the classic look of old galvanized tanks and it will grow on you. Painting your tank will offer protection against corrosion but Galvite paint offers superior protection as the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode. It works the same way zinc anodes protect steel on ships. A lot of steel that is in contact with water or dissimilar metal may have an anode on it to protect it. That is why many steel water pails and boat trailers are galvanized.

Next time you go to a boat ramp see how many painted boat trailers are rusting away compared to the galvanized ones.

I prefer the bare look as well. The galvanite looked to glittery to me. But then again, the finish on my HP100's looks alot like it.

This is a somewhat related question since I will have to rebuild the valve. When using the nylon packing washer on the stem (this is for a Sherwood) do you lube the washers, the stem or neither?

kworkman wrote:This is a somewhat related question since I will have to rebuild the valve. When using the nylon packing washer on the stem (this is for a Sherwood) do you lube the washers, the stem or neither?

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
Chinese Proverb

There is a manual for valve rebuilds in the download section. I think you can "download" it for reference?

simonbeans wrote: There is a manual for valve rebuilds in the download section. I think you can "download" it for reference?

I'll get you started Sherwood Valves

There is over 5 gig of info available to download for free.

Now the fun begins.

- Good for you! Congratulations.
- You'll probably be taking the valves off first to take a look inside. Here's a picture of a tank vise you can make for very little money.

That looks like black vinyl over galvanize, not paint. I see no traces of rust where the vinyl is missing. The ones I had were white vinyl over galvanize. If so just remove the vinyl and you should be good to go.

They were full of sir too. That took awhile to empty and then i got the center bar off. I have to make something tonight at work to remove the other valves as there is no where to apply a wrench. I do have a good pipe vise that i trash picked and got working. It is black vinyl, just very dirty. I was going to leave it alone but alot is missing. I'll take a heat gun to it tomorow and soften it up. They were last hydroed in 91 and the original date is 64

I believe there is a post somewhere by Bernie Campoli on how he made a wrench to remove the elbows.

I read that but dont have the proper tools to make one. I'll have to improvise

kworkman wrote:They were full of sir too. That took awhile to empty and then i got the center bar off. I have to make something tonight at work to remove the other valves as there is no where to apply a wrench. I do have a good pipe vise that i trash picked and got working. It is black vinyl, just very dirty. I was going to leave it alone but alot is missing. I'll take a heat gun to it tomorow and soften it up. They were last hydroed in 91 and the original date is 64

Try this. Separate the tanks then stand one upside down with the valve snugged in a vise, with a block of wood on each side to protect the valve. Turn the tanks counter-clockwise with a large strap wrench or chain tongs. You can drill a hole in one block of wood to receive the burst disc plug or raised area around the hole for same. You can also carve out the blocks to allow for the larger diameter of the threads vs. the body of the valve. Works well for me on those valves.