Vintage Double Hose

Got the August Industries stuff yesterday. All I can say is WOW and highly recommend them to anyone on compressor needs. Will order new rings from RIX and caliper on arrival & contact other ring manf.s to see how they can compete. Today I am working on the final accumulator filter and whip. BTW my Dad's observation on the RIX: 1) Swash plate design- "Industrial (not commercial) design application for low RPM and longevitity, been around a long time- more design application than you will ever need" 2) Teflon rings- "How many hours between recommended changes? (200+) "Shoot, you're good no more than you will use it" 3) Teflon lube- "I don't think using another heavy duty grease will make that much difference; I would just double up service intervals." That really suprised me coming from a man who is a stickler for using exactly whatever something was engineered for. I am going to initially lube the rod ends with LUCAS heavy duty hydraulic applications grease. High melt point (560 vs. 350) low sling. I have spoken to an old time mechanic and grease/lubrication supply rep on this and will monitor closely. I will definitely rotate the ball ends as the manf. recommends.

Why is the life of the rings so short (200 hours) ? My Alkin is a different animal but shows replacement for rings and valves @ 1000 hrs....

Bryan wrote:Why is the life of the rings so short (200 hours) ? My Alkin is a different animal but shows replacement for rings and valves @ 1000 hrs....

The RIX uses no oil for internal lubrication, so can't use the typical steel piston rings bathed in oil from splash and/or pressure lubrication. The dry pistons are sealed with Teflon rings which seal against the smooth cylinder bore with minimal friction, but still wear due to that friction and softness of material.

The rings also serve the very important function of holding the piston centered in the bore so that there is no contact between the piston and cylinder, which would cause catastrophic damage to the expensive metal parts. Changing the Teflon rings at designated intervals will help reduce costly replacement of pistons and cylinders by insuring that they don't touch.

That's the minimum life of the third stage (200) according to the manf. as it works harder with highest pressure. The other stages are rated around 500+. You should get more of course depending on service and operating conditions.

scubasteve59 wrote:That's the minimum life of the third stage (200) according to the manf. as it works harder with highest pressure. The other stages are rated around 500+. You should get more of course depending on service and operating conditions.

Steve, I'm glad to hear that the projected life is 200 hours. I had thought that it was 100 hours, but don't recall where I heard that. There is some additional information in the manual suggesting that the "piston should not be removed unless there is evidence of significant leakage past the rings", and then elsewhere it refers to the 200 hour replacement.

I previously stated that the rings support the piston from touchng the cylinder walls, but upon looking at the drawings, there are actually two specific Teflon "rider" rings that appear to accomplish that task, one at each end of the piston. The four compression rings are in grooves between the rider rings.

Can't remember for sure but think I got that from their technical info manual. Each piston has a rider ring and the 3rd has two riders and the rod another rider. Yes, the third stage according to RIX should work until the very last compression ring wears out. As for mine, there was a big leak/3 stage on startup and when I pulled the third stage the rings literally fell apart when removed. I went ahead and pulled all pistons/cylinders and they all look good with no scoring any cylinders and the rings appear OK on 1 and 2 stages. I will replace 3 stage rings first, run it up, and then proceed onto 2 and 3 stage rings and O ring replacements for total top overhaul. All the heads/valves looked good on inspection/clean up. I'll know on those for sure when I run it up some more. Waiting on 3 stage ring order arrival before any more work proceeds.

New: third stage rings, 1 and 2 stage O ring expanders & rider rings, new fan, sprague accumulator, backfill reg and yoke. Boy did she fire up and run great......This compressor is much nicer and more powerful than I thought....pumped 0-3K after backfill in less than 40 seconds and pumped 4K and climbing before bleeding off pressure on static test (not fill). No doubts it will push 5K if wanted. Filled my steel 72 from 500PSI to 2250 in 12 minutes and topped off to 2800 PSI in 15 minutes total time. I am really impressed. This compressor had set up for eight years before I put it back into service....Antique Bill.....many thanks and I you one for your help..These Rix are clever and simple to work on once understand how the swash plate works. Dove the air Sunday afternoon and was probably the purest I've ever breathed due to no oil in compressor system. Truely "Sweet Air". Below are the pistons with rings on them.
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Nice job Steve! Congratulations on getting your Rix going and having your own dependable air supply. Enjoy!

antique diver wrote:Nice job Steve! Congratulations on getting your Rix going and having your own dependable air supply. Enjoy!

+1 Nice job, it looks great!

Thank you! Next project is to mount final filter vertically on wall and hopefully add two cascade bottles/valves.

Rix down........I was merrily pumping my forth tank of air when the second stage began popping like a lawn mower.....upon inspection I believe the O ring which seals the head to cylinder has sprung a leak due to a nick. With the second stage leaking the pressure build up was CRAP..........I'm understanding compressors are certainly "tuned" with each stage delivering the right pressure for the next to stay balanced and work efficient. It is a very thin O ring to start with so I'm going to change O rings on all three head cylinders while I have it down. More to follow......learning is discovery......discovery is enjoyment.

Steve, generally when a given stage in any compressor goes over-pressure it is due to leakage backward from the next stage. A venting 2nd stage relief valve is almost always due to a valve in the 3rd stage not seating properly, causing that higher pressure to go back to the preceeding stage. It can actually be either the inlet valve or (defying logic) the discharge valve in the 3rd stage. Check those valves carefully when you are checking the other seals. It doesn't take much in the way of rust, debris or wear to have this result.
Good Luck & keep us posted

Roger that...thanks for the advice and will post progress.

Problem solved! Broken O ring pieces in 2 stage reed valve. Overhauled all three heads per factory procedure & pumped three tanks today.

It's surprising what trouble a little piece of oring can cause. Glad to hear you got it repaired and running. That's pretty much how I learned about compressors, by just tearing into them and finding the problems. Good job