DA Aqua Master questions

[1914mauser]

Wow,

I just got back from a test dive in Silver river, Ocala, FL. I am amazed at all the replies an discussion from this thread. Here is a brief report. The DA Aqua Master preformed okay but is definitely not like my Scubapro Pilot converted to air 1 popet. I did a short 15 minute test dive with a 3000 psi 50 cf tank. Spent most of the time clearing my mask and fighting the current. I noticed one of the "C" clamps is loose but a band will fix that. I also discovered the last time it was assembled the horns were not oriented correctly at the 4th hole but on the 3rd. I will be taking it apart to clean and will see the condition of the guts. I will be doing some upgrades to get the best performance I can and being able to do my own maintenance on it is a primary goal. I greatly appreciate the advice I am getting here. Thank you to everyone!

Regards,

[Ron]

About the band clamp:

The earliest a band clamp appears is in the 1956 Us Divers Catalog as an optional purchase. I don't run a single regulator that can take a band clamp without one. Even my NONMAG, which is a highly sought after regulator, has a specially made low magnetic band clamp on it (thanks Dave). I'm probably more on the purist side of the crowd here, and I put a band clamp on everything I can. You could have purchased one from USD in 1956, so I don't see any harm in getting rid of the C clips and putting a clamp on, even as a guy who dives all his stuff in original configuration. Here are the catalog snips from 1956, where you could buy one for 1 dollar and 95 cents

Capture.JPG

[1914mauser]

I don't suppose Bryan would sell me one for $1.95. I have taken it apart now. Everything looks original and in great condition. The previous owner either did not use it much or kept it well maintained. There are no indication of corrosion but it did have some moisture inside probably due to that loose "C" clamp.
I have ordered a band along with some new rubber parts. I am contemplating, the HPR and Cyclone and may do them in stages. I am hooked though and plan on using a double hose rig whenever I can.

Regards,

[Herman]

A few words of caution on disassembly. The LP seat holder was likely staked in place (a punch was used to crimp metal of the nut) to keep it from moving. Many times these are hard to get off without braking the holder. If the LP holder was staked and will not come off easily, here is how I remove them.
First straighten the lever supports, they will likely be slightly bent ( supposedly to keep it on), a pair of pliers works well for this. Then with a slim screwdriver remove the lever support screws, the lever and supports can now be slid off. Unscrew the second stage as an assembly. Once removed, you can hold the LP seat holder with pliers. Carefully turn the nut IN (NOT out) it will most often go easily in that direction. If it moves in, work it in and out GENTLY, many times this is enough to work the staking out. If you have a 5-40 die (NOT 4-40) , use it to clean up the threads. A few years ago, a broke LP holder was the death of the reg until you could find one, luckily now Bryan has reproductions so don't be too bummed if you break it, we have all done it.
The IP adjustment nut was also staked but its not usually a problem to move but it may take some effort the first time, again going in instead of out usually breaks the staking easier.
When you reinstall them, do not restake them, the IP adjuster is ok as is, I put a drop of fingernail polish on the LP holder nut after I am done adjusting it.