Vintage Double Hose

How do I remove the Hookah port nut from the can?
I tried using a wrench but it wont budge (I am turning the correct way), I soaked the can in a Salt-X formula and still the nut will not budge. I don't know if I need to do some other steps first or what.

You can try a couple of things:

1. Let some penetrating oil work into the treads for a while.

2. Apply heat (carefully) after the oil has been allowed to work.

No other steps required but they can be tight/corroded on. It is a standard right hand thread.
I would finish dissembling it (remove everything else) then lay it flat on a table/workbench. Using a 6 point socket or wrench, place the wrench so its end is 1/2" or so above the table. Hold the body down with one hand and with the other press down on the wrench. Usually it will break free once you apply a good bit of torque. If that fails, you can sandwich the body between 2 pieces of wood in a vise and try again. Do not clamp it hard or clamp it directly in the jaws unless you have a good set of softjaws to prevent damaging the finish or worse distorting the nozzle port.

The hooka nut is 18mm by the way.

swimjim wrote:The hooka nut is 18mm by the way.

Actually it is 11/16, an 18 mm will fit but it is larger than 11 /16 and could round off the nut. Nothing on the old USD and Voit regulators are metric.
As Allan said I suggest heat by propane torch just hot enough to get penetrating oil such as Aero Croil to vaporize when sprayed on the nut and use a 6 point 11/16 socket.

I alright well I do not have a blow torch or socket wrench, I am going to the local dive shop tomorrow so I will see what they can do about it.

I just got the Body Ring Tool from Herman; I am a bit confused on the hookah port now. In this picture, I see a cap of sorts and then the screw on nut. Do I need to remove the cap first? If so what tool would I use?

From looking at the cap at different angles it looks bent but almost not noticeable and I do not know if that is a problem.

I wish I could take better photos but my Laptop camera is all I have, trying to do rebuild work in a college dorm is not easy.

Simply remove the hex shaped part just as you would any other nut. It unscrews and takes the "cap" as you call it out all at the same time....think of it as a hex shaped bottle cap.

This make it clear?
Please excuse the greasy hand, I had been working on my outboard, its getting fishing season.
By the way this part DOES NOT come any farther apart. I would suggest you get one of the hookah port adapters from Bryan. That way you can check/set the IP once you are done rebuilding it and you have a port for whatever LP item you might want.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Maybe that is why comic books are so popular?

Thank you, those pictures do help a lot.

The nut and the plug in it is dimensioned to a B oxygen fitting used on welding equipment.

http://www.glasstorchtech.com/bfittingoxygen.html

Finneli,

Hang in there man! There were quite of few of us working old regs in dorms and tiny apartments. I actually didn't have a washer and drier at one point so that I could use the laundry room for my dive gear Then again, I have a house now...and a dang dive shop growing out of my garage. It takes all kinds.

When I run into a stuck fastener made of brass on a regulator, I use the impact method. I take the right size wrench (in this case, I'd use a box wrench since you can easily get it over the fastener) and hit it with a big hammer. I've got a two pound hand held sledge that I use. Simply applying force on a stuck brass fastener just results in rounding it off. The hammer method applies a bunch of torque quickly. I won't mount the regulator in a vise most of the time. I'll just hold it tightly so that something else does not bend--especially with the flat cans on these vintage regs. This is what I've found to work best (after boogering up a bunch of fasteners and hoses).