Vintage Double Hose

- A few weeks back, I bought the unopened, hoseless DA Aqua Master (DAAM) that was for sale on VDH with a Re-Build Kit included. I figured it was a bargain for $125. It looked pretty rough when it arrived but it cleaned up beautifully. And, I decided to leave the original satin finish as is.


- The idea for a green hose, green label DA Aqua Master came to me after talking with Allan about simulating Voit regulators from USD regulators... Since nearly all the Voits were just USD's with Voit clothes on.
- I'm figuring this Green DAAM is sort of a "Faux" Voit VR2 Mariner... Green label and hoses like the VR2. The VR2 was a 2-stage USD Navy DA on the inside while this is the more advanced USD DA Aqua Master on the inside. The new mouthpiece pays tribute to the Navy DA and the Mike Nelson character having been a USN Frogman. I'll post more before/after photos and descriptions of the project shortly.

That looks DAAM good!

What's the other side look like? (compared to before)

- Here are some "before" shots of the insides and then a photo after the cleanup and rebuild. There was definitely some serious corrosion but alot of what looked bad was really just dirt or salt crystalization. I used 50/50 white vinegar and water and brushed with an old toothbrush. Even though I did this pretty quick, I did get some of the reddish copper color where some of the corrosion had been removed.


- Aside from the re-build kit parts, the only part that wasn't reusable was the low pressure seat stem (2nd stage seat holder). The nut was corroded so bad that the top of the stem twisted right off when I tried to unscrew it. This kind of popped off and I lost the washer. I got a new stem and nut from VDH and will replace the washer shortly (you can see the washer is missing beneath the nut on top of the lever).
- The original high pressure seat was fused to the spring block crown by corrosion and it was easy to see why these need servicing from time to time to be sure they compress and expand freely with the spring tension.
- After the re-build, adjustment of breathing sensitivity was pretty easy: I hooked the regulator up to a scuba tank and turned on the air ever so gently at first. When you screw the low pressure seat stem nut too tight, you can hear the air hissing. You loosen it just enough to stop the hissing. The lever is then at about the perfect tension (I think)... Any pressure on it at all releases air.

- Here's a photo of the back side of this regulator. You can see the satin chrome on the can and the yoke is really in beautiful shape. The only part that was ugly was the nozzle. Instead of re-plating it, I decided to replace it with a much better looking DAAM nozzle left over from upgrading my first DAAM to a Phoenix.

- When the original satin chrome turned out to look so good after cleaning, I decided to make this more of a restoration than a custom build. So, instead of the modern Duckbill Eliminator, I ordered a new silicon duckbill exhaust valve for it. And, instead of ordering a replacement DA Aqua Master can label, I set out to restore the original label with green paint.

Beautiful work! The chrome is really in great condition.

I really like restoration shots

- Here are some shots showing the progress in restoring the can and the label. After cleaning off the corrosion, I found the plating on top of the letters to be almost entirely intact. I removed the leftover original blue paint with acetone and scrubbed the label with Brasso and a toothbrush. The resulting chrome letters-on-brass background looked so good I considered just clearcoating it that way to show off the brass.
- Instead, I decided to paint the label in keeping with the idea of restoring rather than customizing... So it will be an original DA Aqua Master... Just GREEN.


- I repainted the label several times and I'm still not happy with it. I think I've got my technique down after making lots of mistakes! (Do not bottom coat white to show the green better. The white smears across the green when you wipe off the letters. Do not get your paint too thick or you'll scuff it when you wipe off the letters.)
- I trimmed the curled crown point rather than replace the decal. Sorry for taking so long to post all this. I'm kind of proud of this regulator and want to tell the story right... Still more to come: Photos and descriptions...

Very nice! Thank you for sharing your Green DAAM with us.

Looks good. I would have never thought about doing a green label, but now that I see it I like it. I've got green hoses and a green mouth piece on my Snark III silver. Good combo. I really like taking a reg like that and returning it to service. You feel like you've accomplished something when your done. One of my favorite dives was with a DAAM I rebuilt that started much like yours. I was diving it and my buddy was diving a much touted Scuba Pro reg which free flowed wildly in the cold November water while my 50 year old DAAM kept ticking like a Swiss watch! Great fun!

Jim

Wow, that really cleaned up nicely indeed. NIce work Surf Lung!

swimjim wrote:... I really like taking a reg like that and returning it to service. You feel like you've accomplished something when your done. ...
Jim

- My sentiments exactly. And if I might add something along those lines, it is remarkable to me that we can get the parts, documentation, and no-how to actually restore these things to like-new or better function. Many thanks to Bryan at VDH and Rob at the Scuba Museum for making these regs, repairs, parts, and all the fun that goes with them an actual REALITY

- Here, after a 20 minute test dive, the restored Green DA Aqua Master was seen reclining on a deck chair with an expression on its face that said, "It's Good to Be Back..."

P.S. Thanks for the kind remarks Drado, JES, Swimjim, and Rob!

Really nice job of restoring the regulator.
Could you post more details on how you restored the name plate? Paint used, how you were able to remove the new paint off the letters so clean etc.
Thanks
Mike

- Thank you! I'm kind of proud of it and appreciate the compliment.
- I looked around the VDH forum alot to find out about how to paint labels. Somebody said to use copy paper against a glass plate to wipe off the tops of the letters. I took this a step further and dabbed a little acetone on the paper to dissolve the paint as I wiped. Don't get the paper wet with acetone as you'll squeegee up a wave that will touch and dissolve the background paint. I used an acetone dampened gauze pad to moisten the paper before each wipe. Acetone evaporates fast. Take your time and don't press down too hard when wiping. Finish by cleaning the edges of the label with a q-tip and acetone. (I cleaned a little more since this picture.)
- I used an indoor/outdoor enamel spray paint. On this project I used Ace Hardware brand "hunter green". Spray the label a light coat, let it dry an hour, spray another light coat and let it dry all night... This drying makes it thinner and backed away from the letter tops so it's less likely to get touched when you wipe.
- It's surprising how well this works...

Turned out great. I'm certain that Mike Nelson is smiling down on you.

And thank you for posting the tip for repainting the labels. I've used a similar technique for nameplates on models(1st time was the Revell model of the Calypso many years ago.) However, I've never heard of using paper.... I will try that.

Great looking project Surflung. The colors look really good together. I think Mike would approve (the USN is a nice touch )

Surflung,

WOW! POP! SIZZLE!..... Question; did you use the vinegar solution to clean up the outside of the cans as well?

Thanks,

Steve