Vintage Double Hose

I would like to start diving with a double hose regulator, but the problem is I don't know exactly what I'am looking for. I have read several post and i'am still confused. I dive with a dry suite, so I think I will need some type of conversion for the suite inflator, bcd, and pressure gauge. Thanks

If you're diving with a drysuit then a DA Aqua-Master regulator with the Phoenix nozzle is the answer.

The Phoenix Nozzle is a balanced first stage assembly that will convert your unbalanced DA Aqua-Master into a Phoenix Royal Aqua-Master which is balanced with 3 HP and 3 LP ports. VDH expects more nozzles around mid-December. Many posts have been made about the Phoenix on VDH.

Here's a link to the Phoenix in the VDH Store: Phoenix Nozzle

AS an alternate to a phoenix, or until the next batch of phoenix nozzles come out, you can get a DA or Royal Aqua Master, and use a 3 way LP adapter onto a chrome Octopus adapter (http://www.vintagedoublehose.com/store/ ... ucts_id=26). This will give you up to 3 LP connections. To get an HP connection you would then need a banjo fitting (http://www.vintagedoublehose.com/store/ ... cts_id=227) But you will probably need a long yoke for this to work. Most Royals come with the long yoke, but not many DA's do. And currently there are none available in the store.

If you look through some of the older post, there are some good pictures using this kind or setup. I think Nemrod has several pictures showing his rig in the days prior to the Phoenix.

what is the average price for this Reg. (DA Aqua-Master regulator)?

Ditto what BSea said plus one note. Most double hosers, DA included were designed to be used with steel 72's at 2250 psi. You can use an al80 if you wish, but bleed it down. There has been some debate whether you can use these regs at 3000 psi. The US Navy did. They also had an abundance of replacement parts. We don't. Tear up the high pressure seat and you have troubles.
The Phoenix conversion, when they are available, cures this issue. I think the next batch is due in December. The Phoenix uses a modern high pressure seat and also has a yoke rated for higher pressures.
In general if your looking for a two hose regulator to use, go with either a US Diver/Aqualung or a Voit product. "most" parts can be had for these. Dacor, Healthways, Nemrod,Northhil, Sportways all made some pretty interesting units, but finding parts can be problematic.
Be sure to pick up a copy of Basic Scuba by Fred Roberts. He not only put in schematics of most of the reg's, but has useful information on using them.

Jim

A nice DA will usually go under 250 dollars, occasionally more and often less. A good Royal Aqua Master can easily run over 500 dollars.

It is entirely possible to invest over 1,000 dollars into a completely modernized Phoenx Royal Aqua Master. If a Phoenix is where you are headed I would find a clean DA Aqua Master. They are common and relatively inexpensive. Once converted to a Phoenix it will be mechanically the same as a Royal Aqua Master except it will have an additional compliment of LP and HP ports.

What we are saying is that the second stage of a DA and a Royal are the same, the difference is the first stage. The first stages are interchangeable thus converting one to the other is possible simply by swapping the first stages. The Phoenix nozzle is a new first stage designed by luis that is essentially a standard Royal Aqua Master first stage but with an increase in length to allow adding LP and HP ports. BTW, the Royal Aqua Master first stage is essentially the same as in the later Conshelf and the modern Titan.

Nem

I have 2 ROYALS that I may part with if you are looking to buy. They will both need to be rebuilt and Bryan would be the guy I would suggest you have do the job.

1969ivan1 wrote:I have 2 ROYALS that I may part with if you are looking to buy. They will both need to be rebuilt and Bryan would be the guy I would suggest you have do the job.

This is probably the best option in order to scratch your vintage itch quickly.

Argos, one step at a time. These guys will bury you with info. An unbalanced Aqua Master sells for about 200 dollars. A balanced Royal Aquamaster goes for 250 dollars. These are "as is" sales, generally. Either of these can be used at pressures up to 3000 psi. However, really old regulators built in the 1950's and 1960's may be fitted with yokes which are too thin and weak for best service at high pressures. Some old Royals may use a soft neoprene seat in the first stage which does not hold up well. However, I have used these at 3000 psi for years without problems so let's not overstate things. I suggest you get a good, clean Aqua Master manufactured in the late 1960's. This regulator is a good starting point for conversion to Phoenix. The Phoenix conversion comes as a screw in nozzle(high press block) with heavy yoke. You will want to look over some of the Phoenix threads on this board. Why conversion? Well, you will answer that yourself. Get an Aqua Master, test it in the pool and play around with it. Inspect the hoses and check valves in the mouthpiece. Use a small end cutter to grasp and remove the circlips. Inspect and replace the duckbill valve inside. Purchase a regulator clamp to replace the circlips if you desire to do so. Replace the diaphragm if you like but tuning, service of the first stage and/or conversion will likely have to be undertaken by a technician. Replacement parts can be found here or elsewhere. At some point, the regulator will have to be comprehensively inspected, serviced and adjusted. This may or may not coincide with conversion if you decide to do that.

For example, I just won a Royal Aqua-Master on E-bay for $225.00 and it needs a rebuild kit $35.00, Hoses $45.00, Duckbill exhaust valve $5.00, Mouthpiece valves $5.00, And I'm willing to bet a new main diaphragm so it performs at it's peak $45.00 and hopefully the HP seat is good or that's another $15.00 and a band clamp ring makes cleaning and servicing a lot eaiser $30.00. Either way all the parts are easy to come by for either the DA Aqua-Master or the Royal Aqua-Master..

Oh and this is a standing notice that I will pay $250.00 any day all day for any complete Royal Aqua-Master....

Wow, thanks for all the info. Now I need to find the Royal or DA Aquq-master. One more question for now how can Itell the the age of the regulator?

argos59 wrote:Wow, thanks for all the info. Now I need to find the Royal or DA Aquq-master. One more question for now how can Itell the the age of the regulator?

Here's a great site for Aqua-Lung regulators:

Early Aqua-Lung Identification Plates

If you get a DA or a Royal the age does not really matter that much. Main parts changed very little and if you are going to change to a Phoenix down the road then it won't matter what year it is to begin with.....You have a few months to find a double hose, get it ready and get comfortable using it as I don't plan on making a run of Phoenix nozzles till December at the earliest. Happy Hunting!

I see that my statements require amplification. The reason for buying a later model regulator has to do with soft parts like hoses and diaphragm. I have seen 40 year old regulators with original hoses and diaphragms which were in good shape, like new even. The inlet filter(s) was still shiny, a very good sign. I have also seen regulators in which the soft parts were rotten and the guts were green. Here is the secret: now and then, a regulator will show up for sale which looks immaculate. Sometimes, this regulator is original, it has been used once or twice in fresh water and stored away for decades. It may have never been serviced. The regulator was bought late in the evolutionary period, just when single hose were becoming wide spread. The owner used the double hose and then changed his mind after choking on some water and his buddies said it was junk. This is what you want. Look for origination points in Wisconsin, Michigan, Missouri and like that. Be cautious of Florida regulators. I'm talking heat, salt, humidity, termites, fungus, you name it. Good hunting.