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Slippery duckbills

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 2:26 pm
by treasureman
here we go...duckbills.... duckbills when received are usually covered in talc or some other white powder which makes them slippery. When installing on a double hose, should they be rinsed off completely.

I installed a powdered one and it turns and turns, even though it was rinsed. Should they be sqeaKILY CLEANED FOR MORE adhesion or left as is with all the powder

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 5:00 pm
by Nemrod
I leave the talc on them, sometimes I even put silicone grease lightly on the part you roll over so it does not stick into the hose or can. It is sometimes easier to install a "slippery" duckbill valve with the top can off so you can hold onto the critter whilst installing it. I do not turn the hose onto it--I push it straight on more or less. Many people remove the duckbills and store them dry and well talced between diving trips. The things are fragile and don't last very long unless very well treated. The talc will mostly wash off after it goes into the water anyways. As of now I have pulled all the hoses and duckbills from my regulators and opened up the cans for storage. I also have talc powdered--with pure talc--the diaphrams, moutpieces and mushroom valves in hopes they will survive he long cold winter with no use.
James

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 5:23 pm
by treasureman
Sounds like the duckbills get more talc on them than my kids bottom when he was in diapers.... they were sliperry too!

Not a bad idea taking them off.

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 7:49 pm
by Bryan
When I put hoses back on I put a very slight bit of silicone on the duckbill around the widest section of the can rim and then push the hose straight on. After I'm done diving and cleaning I put 100% pure talc back in the duckbill to keep it from sticking together while not in use. Beware of using too much silicone on the main diaphragm! I've seen them slip loose!

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 2:44 am
by duckbill
Nemrod wrote: Many people remove the duckbills and store them dry and well talced between diving trips. The things are fragile and don't last very long unless very well treated.
James
Exactly true. Six-of-one/half-dozen-the-other though. Removing and replacing them can also cause damage. So, unless I plan to store it for six months I prefer to talc it up in place and leave it in the reg.

When installing, I usually wash the outside only, to help keep it from turning on the box. Then, when the rim is inverted, there is a nice talc layer to help while pushing the hose on.

My biggest problem while installing the duckbills is trying to open them up once inside the box. I try to push gently with the rounded end of a toothbrush handle; but, I'm sure that this could also cause damage, hence another part of the reason why I prefer to leave mine in place if the reg will be used in a reasonably short period of time. It is also why I like to have one duckbill for each reg I use.

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:36 am
by Bryan
Some folks put a couple of drops of cement on the backside of the duckbill to keep it securely attached to the can.
You can invert a duckbill by milking the exhaust hose. This seems to happen more often with the original thin duckbills but I would not rule it out on the reproduction ones either.

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:46 am
by treasureman
Milking a duckbill.... when i read that, i just about fell of my chair i was laughing so hard.

I can picture this fella holding a duck by the neck in one hand, trying to milk its bill in the other, while the feet are paddling like crazy..anyway, you had to be there to experience the event. (something similar down on the farm, involving tequila, & ducks).

I found though that even with cement, the original duckbills dont stick that well to the can, yet the repro ones which are more custom tailored stick quite well.