Vintage Double Hose

When attaching the retaining ring to the body after it is all in place in the rear box, is there a recommended torque spec, or do i use the Goodentite" wrench specs.

When i remove them, they seems to be on quite well, but after soaking in the reg cleaner, they come off rather easy. So Inch pounds, or foot pounds?

Never seen a torque spec.

In my opinion, the test is that the boxes should not rotate in relation to one another. If they can rotate the diaphram can also unseat. This is a dangerous condition or might also allow the diaphram to lose alignment to the horsehoe--not good either. Cips or clamp, the boxes must be securely locked to one aother. James

What I was trying to find out is there a torque spec in foot pounds or inch pounds when you screw the retaining ring on to the body when it is seated in the REAR box. The body being the part with the hookah attachment, the rear box being the ...box that the body sits in and the retaining ring which is used to screw down on the inside threads to lock the body to the box.

I know both boxes must not turn once the clips or new band clamps are attached otherwise ya get problems. This is for the reatining ring inside the regulator box

I have to ask… do you have a torque wrench that you can use with the four point wrench used to tighten that ring?
Just curious.

I can make the wrench easily enough, and made a field expedient two peg type instead of the fourm peg type. It would only be a matter of welding a small socket to the wrench and then drop the torque wrench on it for more accurate tightening. That is if they have a spec to begin with.

The more i read the more i think they use the "goodentite" wrench

Waste of time in my opinion. If you don't have the correct USD tool or have not built one, I would take a flat brass punch and give the ring a couple of good taps with the punch and a hammer and all will be fine.
There is know written torque spec that I have seen in any publication. Even with the USD tool I just tighten it hand tight and have never had a complaint of one coming loose.

According to the Navy manual here is the procedure for the body ring.
"Dip ring in the following, 5 parts parawax, 5 parts petrolatum and 1-1/2 parts graphite. Heat mixture to 210 degrees F and dip ring. Secure ring to regulator body very tightly."

why wouold they use such a mix. I understand the vaseline and the wax, that makes the object coated with it waterproof.. The graphite makes for easier tightening.

Do they cover this part because of the disimilar metals and how they may react in salt water. (Keep them apart with a surface agent to prevent reactions and severe corrosion.

And is the petrolatum/vaseline safe for rubber parts

Of the dozen boxes I have pried apart, I have noit seen one yet with any coating on the retaining ring except for salt corrossion

Well, then, I agree with Bryan, a few taps of a brass punch should seat the nut with sufficient torque not to loosen. You will note compression of the gasket, when the gasket begins to extrude you know it is being compressed. I love descriptions like "very tight", what does that mean? One does not need to smoke that nut on, tap it on like Bryan said and then check that the gasket is compressed and that there is no movement of the body in the box. They should be enough. I don't think a touch of graphite would hurt but be careful of wht you put inside your breathing path.

James

So top 100 surveyed says use the goodentite. Tap with the punch and make that gasket creep.

got it.

I am used to doing turbines where every screw and nut has a spec, and i thought (wrongly so) that a breathing apparatus would have a spec as well.

"I am used to doing turbines where every screw and nut has a spec, and i thought (wrongly so) that a breathing apparatus would have a spec as well."

Me too, but I don't see one in what few manuals I have and I suspect there never was one. Sometimes the judgment of an experienced mechanic as yourself is better anyways. James