Vintage Double Hose

I have 1 or 2 NOS horseshoe levers if you need 1.

kgehring wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 14, 2018 2:56 pm

I have 1 or 2 NOS horseshoe levers if you need 1.

Thank you. I'll see what I need when I start the rebuild. I really appreciate all the offers. Truly a great bunch of folks on this forum. Mark

Inspect the two ends of the horseshoe that contact the tabs on the diaphragm. Most have wear groves cut in them from the tabs. Use a file to remove the groves and round and polish the ends with 400 wet or dryer sand paper. Check for roughness on the diaphragms tabs and do the same to them.

captain wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:37 am

Inspect the two ends of the horseshoe that contact the tabs on the diaphragm. Most have wear groves cut in them from the tabs.

Excellent info. I looked and sure enough mine have them.

captain wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:48 pm

You will need a 5/32 drill bit, #1 broken bolt extractor, a propane torch and either WD 40 or Aero Kroil.
Drill the nozzle hole with the 5/32 drill bit. Heat the part, don't be afraid of doing damage, a propane torch can not get it hot enough. Heat it for a several minutes then spray with the WD 40 or Kroil. The worst that can happen is the WD 40 or Kroil ignites, which is good because you will know you got it hot enough, just smother the flame with a wet rag. Do this several times then try to remove it with the extractor. Be sure the extractor doesn't hit bottom in the body before it grips the nozzle. If it does you will need to grind the extractor slightly shorter.
This method has never failed me in freeing frozen regulator and valve parts while doing no damage.
I have a NOS nozzle I can give you.

Worked like a charm. Thank you Captain Tom.

Ok, next question. I understand the Voit VR-2 is the same thing as a USD Navy Approved, both with Broxton internals. Therefore, and correct me if I'm wrong, as an unbalanced reg you set the IP on a 300 psi tank. In reviewing past thread discussions and the official repair manual I see recommended IP set ranges from 115 to 140. I understand the IP changes with tank pressure on an unbalanced reg but what is the recommended IP set at 300 psi? Thanks. Mark

Between 130 and 135. Disregard the horseshoe screw setting in the manual. Start at 2 turns out, eye ball and measure the height of the horseshoe ends. They should be as close to the same as possible and the horseshoe should be parallel to the body. If not turn the screws in or out 1/2 turn to even them out. The hinge pin needs to be in place when you do this. This is your base line setting. If it free flows turn the screws in 1/2 turn at a time until it stops. If it doesn't free flow turn them out 1/2 turn until it does then back in just enough to stop the free flow. When installing the diaphragm be sure the tabs are evenly centered on the horseshoe ends. Before installing the can clips hold the can tightly together with your hand to be sure a free flow doesn't start once the cans are clipped together. I find it advantageous to get the setting done and walk away from it for several days and let the soft parts assume a set then check for free flow one last time before clipping the cans together
It take a lot of time and patience to get it right but it greatly helps the performance.

Thanks again Tom! I really appreciate yours and everyone's help on this project. While rebuilding a VR-2 was outside of my comfort zone when I started I now feel I have a pretty good handle on it. I did receive the 2nd stage nozzle. Thank you. I'll post pics of my progress, and, fingers crossed, I'll soon have a divable VR-2 fully restored in original condition. Mark

Nothing too exciting. Starting the rebuild. I resurfaced the HP seat using Bryan's sandpaper technique. Got 1st stage installed. More pics as I progress (whether anyone cares or not - I'm gonna make you watch. )

When you are at the point shown in the last picture is a good time to test the first stage for leaks. Install it on a full tank with the body facing up and level. Remove the pin and pin pad and fill the diaphragm pocket with water and watch for bubbles. If there are none it is good to go. One bubble every 30 seconds is Okay but a stream of bubbles is not. Shut off the tank, dump the water out replace the pin and pin support and push down on the pin support to release the pressure. I usually repeat this test 2 or 3 times before calling it good.

Captain,

Yes sir, will do! Appreciate all the helpful tips I can get. Mark

Update. Tried Captain Tom's water puddle in the pressurized 1st stage pocket trick to test for leaks. All holding great - no bubbles!

Next I switched over to building a tabbed main diaphragm from a single stage diaphram (thanks to Rob for the latter part). Got the plate from a trashed old diaphragm. Drilled a hole for the pop rivet, slathered some silicone sealant on the plate, inserted rivet and presto-chango a tabbed diaphragm.

Check the top edge of the tabs for smoothness and polish them with some 400 grit sand paper if they are rough.

captain wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:05 am

Check the top edge of the tabs for smoothness and polish them with some 400 grit sand paper if they are rough.

Captain, I will make sure the tabs are smooth. I have already rounded off the ends of the horseshoe and gotten rid of the groove marks.

Apologies to Allan (he has the greatest repro labels), but instead of buying a new repro label I tried repainting the old one using Testors enamel. It's not perfect by any means but good enough for government work. Trying to keep as many original parts as possible on this reg not to mention keeping costs down. The chrome is in just OK shape. Think I'll leave it in "battle-scarred" condition for authenticity.

That was the first regulator I ever owned. Actually the first that I ever dived with as well, as I was using a homemade Hookah rig first.